Bozo's

Like so many destination restaurants in southern Louisiana, Bozo's does not at first appear to be a compelling destination. It's a bland, low-slung brick building in a nondescript neighborhood. Table tops are easy-wipe laminate; napkins are paper and they come wrapped around a sheaf of silverware. The menu is not huge and contains no seductive adjectives. But everything I have eaten at Bozo's is worth a major detour. Start with impeccable, cool oysters, opened at the bar just moments before arriving at your table. Spoon into supremely flavorful andouille sausage and chicken gumbo, fork up classic shrimp remoulade or get your fingers messy by peeling barbecued shrimp, the last a local term for shrimp that in fact are not barbecued but served in a buttery, garlicky sauce that demands thorough mopping with the fragile toasted French bread supplied for every meal.