First Street Apizza

With time and appetite for only one item, I chose the New Haven classic, clam pizza. "White or red?" asked the girl at the order window. I chose white, which here means mozzarella but no red sauce. The clams are fresh, not canned, but to my taste, they seem to have been opened a while ago, being more chewy than juicy. Their flavor was fresh and sweet, but I missed the succulent nectar that drips from a just-opened one. Cheese is spread judiciously so as not to overwhelm the crust or clams and bits of raw garlic are strewn about in abundance. Lemon wedges are provided on the side, which do add a certain sparkle to the clams; but call me hidebound: I'm just not happy squeezing lemon juice on a pizza.