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Ambience at Martha Lou's gives new depth of meaning to the term casual: the window air-conditioning unit is propped up by a pepper dispenser; framed encomia from the press have not recently been dusted; a television is tuned to an evangelical station to which no one pays attention. And yet, Debra greets customers with genuine hospitality offered by few formal maitre d's. It is her pleasure to guide newcomers through a menu that includes fried chicken every day and such specials as fried fish, pork chops, ribs, and chitterlings. Sides are Lowcountry paragons: mac 'n' cheese, red rice and white rice, collard greens, lima beans, okra soup, and cornbread.
