Proprietor Edward Graham, who started in the business by slicing onions as a kid, slaps a round of beef on the grill and cooks it with a fistful of onions until the onions become glistening, limp squiggles that only partially adhere to the meat and tend to fall from inside the bun as soon as the sandwich leaves its plate. The hamburger, infused with the sweet taste of onions, is juicy and rugged-textured.