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@ 2010-06-21 11:55:00
Bertha’s is a fry house of the first order. They don’t source money fish like snapper and grouper here. At these prices—about eight bucks for a generous meat-and-three—they can’t afford to. Whiting is the species of choice. Cooked to order, shingle-thin fillets emerge from the oil tasting as sweet as cream.
You can get a great pork chop, too. Gnarled in shape and vaguely ferrous in color, these bone-in monsters are ferried straight from the fry bank. They arrive so hot that, at a recent lunch, my rib bone burned a hole through the foam plate.