Our waiter, Julian Dortch, is a suave man in his late thirties, with a silky baritone that recalls Teddy Pendergrass. During the day, he works at a furniture manufacturer here in Florence, Alabama, assembling office tables. But five nights a week, for nearly twenty years, he has donned a red dinner jacket with a black shawl collar and a black bow tie, and walked the floor at Dale’s Restaurant.