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About an hour southwest of Charleston, Edisto Island seems barely connected to the mainland. Lying among a series of tangled waterways, it has no traffic lights, and beachside residents are required to turn off all outdoor lamps and to be quiet after dark so sea turtles can come ashore and lay their eggs in peace. The buffet line at Po Pigs Bo-B-Q (named for proprietor Robert Bobo Lee) is also proudly primitive, harking back to the old Carolina ritual of a pig pickin'—where everything is laid out, "from the beard to the tail" (barbe à queue).
