Barney Greengrass, The Sturgeon King

In the glass case of this restaurant and take-out store on New York's West Side, you will find lean, silky sturgeon, salty cured salmon (known as lox), not-so-salty cured salmon (novie), snow-white whitefish, and luscious sable. At the tables in the dining room adjacent to the takeout counter, all these fish are available on platters, with bagels and/or bialys, cream cheese, onions, tomatoes, and olives.