A big, square, brick walled room with red checked tablecloths, Bon Ton is soothingly old fashioned. It's the place to know the joy of crawfish etouffe, an unspeakably luscious meal especially in May, the peak of the season when crawdads are plumpest. Or you can start dinner with an appetizer of fried crawfish tails. They look like little fried shrimp, but taste like shrimp’s much richer relatives.